K-Beauty is Bigger and Better than Ever - Here’s Why

If you’ve recently discovered the astounding benefits of Korean skincare, you might be surprised to learn that Beautytap was once an online K-beauty retailer. I’ve been a devotee since 2015, and when I was invited to write an editorial about my skin cancer journey for Beautytap in 2018, the site became my personal HQ for shopping, writing, and interacting with the K-beauty community.

It’s hard not to notice the most recent explosion of K-beauty in the U.S. From Sephora and Ulta to major department stores, skincare and makeup developed and formulated in South Korea is buzzier than ever. Their brands reportedly spend more on research and development than their western competitors, and formulas are constantly being modified to meet both consumer demands and ingredient trends.

Affordability and glass-like skin are just two of the many reasons why K-beauty is much more than a trend, and why you might want to pay closer attention.

#1 Widespread U.S. Availability

Less than a decade ago, there were just a handful of U.S. websites dedicated to selling Korean skincare and makeup, and like many other devotees, my pursuit of hard-to-find hanbang products, like Beauty of Joseon’s Dynesty Cream ($24), required overseas hauls, hiring bilingual concierge shoppers, paying sky-high DHL shipping fees, and patiently waiting as long as three months for boxes to clear U.S. customs.

Don’t get me wrong. I loved the thrill of finding hidden gems unavailable locally, but I’m beyond grateful for K-beauty’s ongoing popularity and now widespread availability in brick-and-mortar stores. If you’re searching for luxury K-beauty brands, like Amorepacific and Sulwhasoo, Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom have you covered. Try Ulta for budget-friendly options from COSRX and check out Target’s aisles for beloved favorites from Laneige, Skin1004 (read on for my fave) and Mediheal. Finally, if you live within driving distance of a dedicated K-beauty store, like Aritaum, or an Asian market, like H Mart, you’ll find things you’ve probably never seen online … and discover a tasty Korean snack if you visit the latter.

Websites like Song of Skin founded by the adorable Kelley Liu and her mom, Peach & Lily and Soko Glam offer a diverse selection with reasonable shipping thresholds. Amazon also makes it easy to purchase online, but many people still worry about receiving fake products from third-party vendors. Tales of expired products are also common, so discernment is essential.

#2 Next Generation Sheet Masks

K-beauty changed the way we mask. Most of us grew up using wash- or peel-off masks, so when Korean sheet masks hit the scene, they quickly became mainstream. Historically, skincare devotees have relied on the toner-soak method for treating dry skin where cotton squares are carefully separated then soaked in an inexpensive, yet hydrating toner then applied as necessary. Sadly, the layers dry quickly and don’t offer the greatest hydration.

Korean sheet masks were originally similar to those found in other Asian countries, but they quickly evolved to include hydrogels and bio-cellulose, allowing for longer wear-times and better absorption. Most were available for $1–$3 each (even cheaper when purchased in bulk abroad) so it was easy to use them daily without breaking the bank.

While sheet masks can still be ingredient focused – like my long-time favorite Papa Recipe Bombee Honey Mask ($20 for 10) – many of today’s sheet masks target key concerns, like barrier repair, inflammation, and dullness. You can even find masks filled with probiotics or ingredients to boost collagen production.

Enter the next generation of sheet masks. The Biodance Bio-Collagen Real Deep Mask ($5) transforms from opaque to clear and is meant to be worn for hours at a time — even overnight. The company says the hydrogel mask is actually a solidified serum, and that it loses its opacity as your skin absorbs the ingredients. Beyond its physical transformation, the mask is packed with probiotics, fish collagen, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and galactomyces. Falling asleep with a mask on is now a good thing.

#3 Time Treasured Ingredients for Every Step of Your Routine

Whether you’re dealing with rough skin texture, sensitivity due to over-exfoliation, or need serious rehydration, K-beauty can help.

In Korean skincare, chemical exfoliants reign supreme, especially alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) and relative newcomer poly hydroxy acids (PHAs). Instead of using an abrasive ingredient to remove dead skin cells, AHAs and PHAs gently eliminate rough, dead skin on the surface while BHAs work to unclog pores, so skin feels smoother and is less prone to breakouts. The best part about chemical exfoliants? They do all of this without disrupting the skin barrier.

No doubt you’ve also seen Medicube on your social feed. The brand is everywhere, and if you’re looking for a gentle foaming cleanser that provides mild exfoliation, check out their Zero Pore SA Clear Capsule Cleansing Foam ($14.90). It cleanses and polishes skin in a single step. Bonus points for fun here - the cleanser is blue!

Centella asiatica (aka cica or tiger grass) products, rich in madecassoside, help strengthen your skin’s moisture barrier while also quelling redness and irritation. You’ll find cica in almost every type of skincare product, and bi-phase options are my favorites. These mixtures include both water and oil, which naturally separate but combine when shaken. Bioheal BOH Panthecell Repair Cica Cream Mist ($15.75) is a popular inexpensive option available from Olive Young online. Visitors to Korea will recognize these stores that are like U.S. drugstores and carry popular Korean brands at various price points.

Camellia oil has long been revered in both Korean skincare and haircare products because of its non-greasy feel and ability to fight off free radicals rampant in pollution. If you’re nervous about using facial oils, consider a bi-phase mist instead. Femmue, a beautiful, pro-adored brand focusing on flowers and botanical formulas, makes a dry bi-phase oil, Dual Essence Camellia ($42), that balances skin’s water and barrier-protecting lipids. Use it for a hydrated glow or to shorten your regular routine.

#4 Novel Packaging for Tried-And-True Staples

Hate trying to find a spatula to remove products from your skincare jars? Celimax addresses that complaint by putting its Dual Barrier Purifying Cleansing Balm ($20) in a unique grinder container. Simply twist the internal lid, and the balm will roll out as needed – like the shavings you discard when sharpening an eye pencil.

Skincare-tainment aside, the balm removes stubborn waterproof makeup and is fragrance free.

Sleepless nights leaving you looking less like your cute, cuddly self? TonyMoly has a whole line of panda-shaped products to help brighten, hydrate, and soften your skin that you can’t help but be charmed by. Panda’s Dream Brightening Eye Base ($12) contains puffiness-reducing peptides to tackle those panda circles as well as titanium dioxide and mica, which temporarily brighten the under-eye area. And if your hands need a little love, grab the matching Panda’s Dream Hand Cream ($12). I’ve had one on mine for nearly 10 years.

#5 Unique Products to Target Pain Points

Although we know that topical solutions for deep skin problems are limited, Korean companies like JakYoung combine well-established practices, like massage, with “slimming” ingredients to help improve circulation and the appearance of cellulite. The Cellu-Light Stick ($65) utilizes pink pepperslim – an extract showing promise in increasing microcirculation and improving the appearance of dimples when combined with massage.

And if you’re a fan of both gua sha and face rollers, imagine having both in one combination tool. The Golki Sculpt & Lift Gua Sha Roller ($29) from Then I Met You (founded by Charlotte Cho of Soko Glam) makes it easy to roll away puffiness and increase lymphatic drainage with just one tool. The gua sha portion allows you to apply even pressure while massaging it against your facial contours. If you regularly drop your gua sha (which happens to me when I’ve overapplied my facial oil) you’ll love the handle that ensures a safer grip.

#6 K-Beauty Makes Making Up Fun

Life can be overwhelming, so finding things that make you smile – even simple things like product packaging – can put a little pep in your step. Korean products often incorporate storytelling in their packaging approach. For a decade, I’ve used Banila Co.’s Miss Flower & Mr. Honey Cream ($42). Its honeycomb-shaped jar houses a rich restorative cream perfect for slugging. It also contains five different types of honey compounds.

TONYMOLY, Peripera, and Etude House make some of the cutest products I’ve ever seen, and Colorgram is building on that trend. From its pastel packaging and pudding pots to its gloss-to-stain lippies and all-in-one aegyo sal Under Eye Highlighter Sticks ($12.99), you’ll find everything you need for soft, youthful point makeup.

And lest we forget, cushion foundation didn’t exist until 2008 when Amorepacific introduced the concept of purse-friendly, on-the-go base makeup. Finding the correct shade was tough 10 years ago, with many brands only offering two or three choices, but the popularity of these stamp-and-go products has led to more inclusive options, like TIRTIR’s Mask Fit Red Cushion ($25) that comes in 30 shades. These are ideal for travel and midday touchups. Just remember to clean that cushion puff regularly.

#7 From Snail Mucin to PDRN

Part of the reason K-beauty fans stick with these products stems from their ingredients. Consider snail mucin. Most fans are initially curious, and once they experience the skin soothing and hydration-boosting benefits of a product like the COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence ($25) – which is even available in my local Fry’s grocery store now – they’re hooked.

Brands like Benton also introduced us to bee venom, especially for reducing acne and soothing the inflammation that comes with it. And in 2019, Shangpree – the spa brand that created my HG (and now discontinued) Bitgoa Hue Rich Cream – launched its Marine Jewel Capsules and put extracted salmon sperm DNA (aka polydeoxyribonucleotide or PDRN) on our radar and our faces.

From improving elasticity to reducing inflammation and stimulating collagen production, PDRN is worth considering (unless you’re allergic to fish). Rejuran injections improve skin gradually, so you’ll see immediate benefits in hydration as well as improved elasticity and firmness within a few months. Rejuran also makes cosmetic-grade, patented topicals (c-PDRN®) in case you’re not ready for injectables. If you have an in-office treatment planned – I’ll be having my yearly Erbium laser next month – consider Rejuran’s Recover c-PDRN Lifting Ampoule ($129). It’s ideal for calming the skin after an aggressive procedure and also includes cica, niacinamide, rice extract, and hyaluronic acid. Bonus points for the single-use ampoule bottles!

For those who prefer plant-derived PDRN, check out Abib’s PDRN Collagen Lip Mask Jelly ($17). Plant-derived PDRN is bio-identical to salmon PDRN, so the idea is that it will perform similarly. Note: One of my other discontinued HGs was Abib’s Hypoderma SP1-2GF Serum Cell Repair. As the first Korean growth factor serum I loved in 2017 after my first bout with basal cell carcinoma, the brand continues to impress me nearly 10 years later.

Final Thoughts

In addition to all of the skin and makeup gems above, K-beauty continues to make building a skincare routine accessible at all price points. While some brands are pricey, the majority are not and you can easily put together a minimal yet effective routine by strolling into Ulta.

For approximately $100, you can get a gentle cleanser (COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser $14) hydrating/soothing toner (Skin1004’s Probio-CICA Essence Toner $21) eye cream (Medicube PDRN Pink Peptide Eye Cream ($22.90) exfoliating and soothing moisturizer (Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Cream $27) and sunscreen (Anua Zero-Cast Moisturizing Finish Sunscreen $18).

In addition to skincare, K-beauty has expanded our appreciation of Korean culture, including food, music, and television. It’s hard not to fall in love with K-pop and Korean dramas. Anything that brings joy while helping us learn more about one another as human beings is always a very good thing.